
The coil has 11 turns – 0 – 11 turns (a center-tapped design), perfect for a boost circuit like a Joule Thief.
For switching, I used a CL100 NPN transistor, which handles higher current than small signal transistors.
On the base, I used a 100Ω resistor to limit current and control the transistor's switching.
The power supply is a 3V battery (2×1.5V cells), and the output drives 4 white LEDs in parallel — each one rated around 3V.
Even with this simple setup, all 4 LEDs glow brightly using just a 3V input, thanks to the voltage-boosting coil and efficient switching of the CL100 transistor.
🛠️ This kind of circuit is great for torches or emergency lights where you want to run multiple LEDs from a low-voltage battery."
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✅ Optional On-Screen Caption Ideas:
"Coil: 28 SWG Copper Wire, 11-0-11 Turns"
"Transistor: CL100 NPN"
"Base Resistor: 100Ω"
"LEDs: 4× 3V White LEDs in Parallel"
"Power: 3V (2 AA Batteries)"
I built a simple Joule Thief circuit to test battery performance. I used the exact same setup on both sides — same white LED, same coil, same transistor — but with different batteries: Duracell on one side, and Eveready on the other.
After running both setups continuously for 3 days, I noticed something interesting —
👉 The LED powered by Duracell was still glowing bright,
👉 While the one using Eveready had dimmed by around 30%.
This clearly shows that Duracell batteries are more efficient.
Why?
✅ Duracell has higher capacity (up to 2500mAh)
✅ Lower internal resistance, so there's less voltage drop under load
✅ And they’re better suited for high-drain circuits like the Joule Thief
On the other hand, cheaper Eveready batteries lose voltage faster, which reduces the LED brightness over time.
🎯 So if you're building a long-lasting, high-brightness torch or DIY project, I recommend using quality batteries like Duracell.
Cheaper batteries might work at first, but their performance drops quickly.
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