
- Take a look back to judge how you need to adapt your paddle to the wave
- Sometimes, when the wave already has a good shape, you don’t want to start paddling too early as this could cause the wave to break on you
- In this case, wait and try to time your paddle so you have time for 6 - 7 quality paddle strokes as the wave transitions from stage A to stage B
- Paddle perpendicular to the wave, look in the direction you want to go
- Keep your head low when the wave lifts you
Reposition yourself in the top part of the wave to keep up with the wave
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