In search of the Crystal Pyramid - Pilbara Motorcycle Trip ep31

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Searching for the Crystal Pyramid of the Pilbara - a short segment from our upcoming Australian Motorcycle Adventure Travel Film



By studying maps, I worked out that the nearest civilisation to the remote capricorn ranges was Ashburton Downs Station.My plan was to visit the Station and find out if they knew how I could get to the crystal pyramid.
At a remote truck stop on the North West Hwy I met Joyce, who ran a takeaway food bus selling burgers. She also ran Emu Creek Station, 310,000 acres of red earth country running only 1000 to 11 hundred head of drought master cattle. I told her of my plans to visit the Capricorn Ranges. She said,’ You’ll get sand from here on in. Watch out for the blackfellas dogs, they get paid $10 a day to feed em, but dont. They form big packs of up to 50. The locals out here dont camp alone. Light a fire at night to keep the bastards away!

I take the turnoff to Asburton Downs. I calculate that to take this trip trip I will take my supplies right to the edge - fuel, water, food.

That night as I camp out, the sound of scrub bulls breaking the silence. I wonder what it is that drives men to explore. Is it that in searching for the unknown, we hope to find ourselves?

The next morning I visit the homestead. Stereotypes are broken, with most of the workers here being female.I speak with Andrew, the owner, of my plan to find the pyramid. He is a little amused and informs me the range is about 30 kms from the homestead. He draws up a rough mud map on piece of paper. ‘Rough Country out there, I dont wanna have to come in and save ya.’
I told him I will spend a night out there and return before noon tomorrow.

It was pretty harsh country, Asburton downs covers 870,000 acres running a mere 8-10 thousand head of cattle. The mining tracks I followed hadn’t been maintained for half a century. Fields of huge boulders and sandy creek bed wash outs. I was determined not to drop my bike, knowing with my popped rib I wouldnt be able to lift it!

I find what looks like the Capricorn Ranges. Five mountain peaks, running on a straight line east to west. I find a load of copper ore and some empty beer bottles to suggest the area had been mined. The forth peak was where the crystal pyramid was suppose to be.

I ate the last of my food, using my bike for shade. I then climbed to top in the seering midday heat.
I couldnt find any trace of the crystal pyramid and decided to set up camp for the night atop the mount.

It didn’t really worry me that I didnt find the pyramid. I was completely alone in this timeless landscape, and I was comfortable with that. I had no fear. I felt confident in my ability to get myself in and out of this remote location.

That morning I whistled up the sun, a slight echo resonating across the vast silent valley below.

I’d never been alone in such a harsh isolated environment. I was kinda overcome with awe. I felt very small, but also connected to all that surrounded me. An immense feeling of well being came over me.

I headed back to the homstead and told Andrew of what I’d found. ‘Nah mate, that wasn’t the right mountain, you were 10 kays shy!

Oh well, somewhere out there the crystal pyramid remains. I may not have found it, but I did find something, something within - a belief in myself to be able to got out into the desert, like the mystics of the past. To be alone with my thoughts, and to be totally comfortable with that.


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