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Jason Wu was on the runway tonight after a year-and-a-half absence. There are risks involved in removing yourself from the conversation. Fashion moves fast and a new New York generation is staking its claim to audiences’ shrinking attention spans. But this self-imposed break—taken, Wu said, because he was tired and wanted to spend more time in his atelier—appears to be all upside. He got to have an August vacation in Italy and Majorca, and he delivered a concise collection of evening looks that combined his signature precision with an appealing, rumpled—yes, rumpled—ease.

Backstage Wu explained that most of the fabrics he used had been washed. The process cut the preciousness of silk habotai and other fine materials. In the silk habotai’s case, it gave a slim sheath a crinkly quality, where washing the satine of a strapless hourglass in a pretty withered floral print by photographer Maxime Poiblanc produced more three-dimensionality. Even still, the silhouette here was romantic and willowy, close to the body with flashes of upper thigh. Suits played a secondary role, but they were likewise cut quite lean. Wu paired them with matching bra tops in the au courant style.

The confident focus of the lineup was its strength. Specializing in something precise seems like the right thing to do in this moment of a rising consciousness about fashion’s profligate waste. Wu definitely has an exacting approach, the intentional imperfections of this collection aside. One thing, though: In his absence, fashion has become a more inclusive place. He dresses women of many sizes on the red carpet. Why not reflect a more diverse beauty on his own runway?
World Fashion Channel

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