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Chapters:
00:18 - Manual Mode and resolution
01:05 - FPS, NTSC, PAL, Slo mo
03:16 - White Balance
04:25 - Exposure
04:50 - Aperture
06:07 - Shutter Speed
06:57 - ISO
07:39 - Exposure Triangle and histograms
08:11 - ND Filters

First up, no matter what you're filming on, for the best results, always switch to manual mode if you can instead of auto, this will usually be marked with an M on most DSLR or mirrorless cameras.

Now set your resolution. I would recommend shooting at least in full HD, which is 1920 by 1080 pixels, and these settings are normally marked in your menu with FHD or 1080p.

On some cameras, you can choose UHD (ultra HD) or 4K, which is twice the size of HD, or even higher settings like 6K, 8K and beyond, but these will create much bigger files.

The next number to look at, which is sometimes next to the resolution, is frames per second, which is sometimes called FPS, and this means how many still images the camera will be taking per second. NTSC countries like the USA will often give you frame rate options like 24, 30, and 60, While PAL countries like the UK and most of Europe will give you options like 24, 25 and 50. For a cinematic look, most people will choose 24 frames as this is what is used in Hollywood films.
30 frames or higher frame rates than that usually look cheaper and more like home video, so I would avoid these, unless you're doing a “found footage” film and you want that home video look, or if you're using high frame rates for slow motion.

When doing slow motion, you can shoot at a higher frame rate, such as 60 frames. And then when you edit, you can play this back at your normal speed, such as 24 frames. And the whole shot will stretch out longer and so appear slower.

Next look at white balance. This is setting what the camera sees as white. And this affects all the other colours. You'll most likely want to use a daylight preset if you are outside being lit by the sun, or the tungsten setting, or perhaps the fluorescent setting if you are indoors, being lit by artificial light.

Next you'll need to set your exposure. Now this is how much light is being let into the camera. Your image can be too underexposed meaning to dark or too overexposed meaning too bright. So you want to get it somewhere in the middle where the scene looks natural and is just right. Exposure is controlled by three settings: the aperture, the shutter speed, and the ISO.

The aperture is the number with a decimal point that you can probably see on your screen, which is also called the f number or f stop. And this setting opens and closes the front of the lens to let more or less light in. The aperture also controls your depth of field, which means how much background or foreground blur your subject will have. The lower the number, the less of your shot will be in focus, which normally means more background blur if you are filming an actor. And the brighter your image will get, because lots of light is being let into the lens. And the higher that number, the more of your shot will be in focus and the darker your image will get, because very little light is being let into the lens. So when we say something is shallow focus, it means there is lots of background blur. And this is an attractive look you see in most films for shots of actors
as it puts all of your attention on them. When we say something is deep focus, it means the opposite. It means that everything in the frame looks sharp at once, the foreground, the mid-ground and the background.

Next we have shutter speed. Shutter speed controls your motion blur. The lower the number the blurrier moving things in your image will be. And the more light it will let in. The higher the number,
the less motion blur you will see, and any movement in your shot will look more sharp in every single frame. For normal filming, the rule is to set your shutter speed at double your frame rate,
if you want your motion blur to look natural, just like our eyes see it.

Finally, there is the ISO, and this is basically artificial brightness that you can add to your image if it's too dark due to a lack of available light. ISO can be very useful to brighten a dark scene, but you should try and keep this number as low as you can, because the higher you set it, the grainier and more fuzzy the image will look.

So those three settings - the aperture, the shutter speed, and the ISO - all work together
to determine the exposure of your image, forming the 'exposure triangle'. You can either try judging exposure by eye, or you can perhaps use a tool in your camera, like a histogram.

When you're filming outside, you would probably use a filter on the front of your camera to help with exposure. These are called ND or neutral density filters, and this is basically like adding
sunglasses to the front of your camera to cut down the light coming in, and it allows you to shoot with a low aperture and that correct shutter setting that you probably want, even in bright light.

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